Food doesn’t always mean something to all of us, all the time.
Chefs and writers—myself included— have a tendency to romanticise the idea that each meal, each mouthful, each flavour of food would trigger a particular insight, memory, or a primal Pavlovian response in the eater. But sometimes, food is just food. I mean, after a long day at work, you don’t want the dumplings you’re pan-frying cold out of the freezer to bring forth the spirit of your Chinese great-grandmother, furrowing her brows at you, rattling off chengyus or Confucian quotes about how making and pleating your own dumplings from scratch always tastes better than quick, ready-made ones.
So food isn’t always about nostalgic memories or cognitive triggers. Sometimes, food is just a way to survive, a means to satiate our temporary hunger, just something we stuff ourselves with. And that, for me, was chive dumplings.
For the uninitiated, these are translucent, slightly chewy dumplings made of tapioca flour, filled with a mixture of Chinese chives, garlic, and often dried shrimp. I have no particularly poignant memory of eating chive dumplings, or of pleating it together with my relatives like that scene from Crazy Rich Asians, or of being handed down a family recipe for a special chive dumpling filling my grandmother uses, and being struck with a culinary epiphany. To me, these dumplings were just one of those rarely seen items, a dumpling that’s fading from the dim sum pop culture.
But my mom have built up many associations with it over the years. It’s one of her favourite dumplings, something she’d get each time she spies it on a passing dim sum cart, a dumpling she’d rave about when her relatives make it for her when we go back to her hometown, a dumpling so loved that she’s started growing her own Chinese chives in our backyard.
So pleating this with my mom on a Sunday afternoon, hearing her tutting adoringly at my dumpling folding skills (or lack thereof), a new connection was made, a new memory formed. And now, chive dumplings mean something to me, and will continue to mean something to me. All of me, each and every time I have it.
5 thoughts on “Chive Dumplings (Ku Chai Kueh)”
Jun, I am so excited about this recipe! Thanks for posting. I’m gluten-free due to health reasons… any chance that the wheat starch can be subbed with cornstarch? Would appreciate your input, and I’ll share my findings once I get your blessing. Happy Lunar New Year!
I tried these the other night and they were delicious! I had such a difficult time working with the dough though. I measured very carefully, but I wonder if I was doing something wrong technique-wise?
Thank you so much! Hmm what was the issue with your dough? Was it too tight, or too sticky perhaps? The key is not to work it too much, but also, finessing the right texture of it takes some practice. A wetter dough will be more pliable, but you also want it to be easy to work with and not stick everywhere.
Yeah, it was ultra sticky and fragile. I couldn’t roll it thin enough without it tearing and oiling everything up was the only way I could work with it at all. I was mixing by hand though, maybe that made the difference?
Hmmm thanks for the feedback! But yeah if you mix it in a mixer it’s usually easier to control, so if it’s too sticky just add more flour to the mixer and it should solve the issue. Let me know if this works!