Comfort food transcends boundaries, whether it’s a warm bolognese that reminds you of a hearty Italian dinner in the heat of the Italian summer, a Creole gumbo bringing you back to the jazz and joy of New Orleans, or in this case, lu rou fan giving you a warm, pork-and-spice-scented Taiwanese hug. Even if you’ve never been to Italy in the summer, have no connection with New Orleans, or have never hugged anyone (or anything) from Taiwan, having these dishes often fill you heart with a sense of deep comfort. They tell you that everything is going to be okay, at least for the moment.
Maybe that’s why we make comfort food, maybe that’s why I made this lu rou fan two Sundays ago. Malaysia is under lockdown again, and I desperately needed a reprieve from the doom and dread (pandemic-induced and otherwise). I spent the whole day in the kitchen, even if it meant that I would have to forgo everything else I had planned, and just spend it marinating eggs, cooking rice, blanching vegetables, and watching meat braise and bubble in a pot. The process (and what came out of it) brought about a sense of calm and contentment in a time when I needed it a lot. For a brief dinner at least, fork-tender pork, curds of barely-set egg yolks, and a bowl of fluffy, still steaming Japanese rice made everything feel okay.
You might make this, you might not. But if you’re reading this in this pandemic-riddled time we’re in, I hope you find comfort, wherever you are, whatever you’re having for dinner tonight.
About the Dish
At its heart, lu rou fan is just a simple dish of braised meat and rice. The rice is often steamed plain, and serves as a pillow for the braised pork to snuggle with. For the braise, pork belly is diced, seared off along with alliums and shiitake mushrooms, and left to bubble in a soy and spice-heavy broth for a few hours, until thickened and spoon-tender. It’s not quite braised pork belly, not quite mince, but a hearty in-between. And when the meat is done, it’s ladled onto the rice, along with some common side dishes like blanched vegetables and braised eggs.
As for the origins of the dish, it’s largely considered Taiwanese, but has roots in both Taiwan and Shandong in China. Judy from The Woks of Life shares of the lu rou fan feud between the two regions with a indicative incident: “To help set the record straight, the Taipei government launched a huge campaign in 2011, handing out 1000 bowls of lu rou fan and claiming ownership of the dish. That’s dedication, my friends.”
Ah, the lengths us Asians go to in our food fights! (Perhaps this is a great topic for a podcast episode eh?) But wherever it belongs, lu rou fan is comfort food. And no matter which side of the Taiwan-Shandong fence you’re on, even if you’re detached from the whole debate, there’s comfort to be found in it.
Cooking Tips
To really coax out the comfort from your lu rou fan, here are a few pointers for the recipe below:
- Use pork belly with skin, post-braising it’ll add a nice textural contrast to the softened meat.
- Make sure to braise the meat really low and slow, with the liquid barely simmering, just giving out tiny burps of bubbles every few seconds.
- In a classic lu rou fan, the eggs are hard-boiled then braised together in the meat, but I opted for the more flavorful—and to me, the even more comforting— soft-centered eggs, the one often served with Japanese ramen.
- If you’re making the soft-centered ramen eggs, you can start marinating it the night before, and then take out the eggs and use the marinating liquid to braise the pork, just top it off with extra dark soy sauce and spices.
- Lu rou fan makes for a great dish for meal-prepping or bulk-cooking. Just keep it in the fridge and reheat it whenever you want.
1 thought on “Lu Rou Fan (滷肉飯; Taiwanese Braised Pork Rice)”
Thank you ffor this